Artificial grass performs well in Colorado Springs because the high-altitude sun, freeze-thaw winters, and afternoon hail that stress natural lawns do not damage turf fibre or infill. What does matter is what lies beneath and inside: the base preparation, drainage, infill type and amount, and the finishing details that separate a durable installation from one that settles, pools water, or fails at the seams. This guide walks through each layer and component so that you can understand what you are paying for, ask the right questions of any installer, and verify that the work meets the written specification before the job is finished.
Whether you are installing turf in a residential yard, a pet area, a patio or balcony, or a commercial property, the same principles apply: good drainage starts at the ground, infill is specified by weight and type, and seams and edges are finished to stay tight and level. This reference is for Colorado Springs homeowners and property managers who want to know what goes into a turf installation that will perform reliably in our climate.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material spread on top of the turf fibre to weight it down, protect the backing from UV damage, and help drainage. The most common infill is silica sand, a basic ballast that is inexpensive and effective for residential yards. Coated sand is silica sand that has been rounded and often tinted to match the turf colour or to reduce glare and heat. Coated sand is gentler underfoot than sharp silica and is standard in most residential installations in Colorado Springs.
Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes odors, making it popular in pet turf installations. It is often blended with sand rather than used alone. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, such as Envirofill, are engineered to reduce odor and surface temperature; these cost more than basic sand but can be a good fit for high-traffic pet areas or yards exposed to intense afternoon sun. Crumb rubber, made from recycled tires, is used in sports fields and athletic courts where impact absorption matters, but it is not recommended for residential yards or pet areas in Colorado Springs because it retains heat and requires more maintenance.
The choice of infill depends on your use case, budget, and climate concerns. A turf installer should name the infill type and explain why it suits your yard, and this choice should appear in your written specification before work begins.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is measured in pounds per square foot (psf), and this number determines how well the turf performs. The infill props up the synthetic fibres so they stand upright and feel natural underfoot, protects the backing from UV exposure, adds weight to hold the turf in place in wind, and contributes to drainage by creating pathways for water to move through the pile. Typical residential turf requires between 1.5 and 3 pounds of infill per square foot, depending on the turf product, pile height, and intended use. Pet areas and play zones may call for slightly higher rates. Putting greens and sports fields have their own specifications.
Too little infill is a common shortcut taken by installers cutting costs. When infill is sparse, the fibres mat down, seams become visible and lift at the edges, drainage suffers, and odor can develop in pet areas. A quality installer will specify the infill amount in writing before the job starts and will measure and document the application during installation. Ask any installer to put the infill rate in pounds per square foot into your written spec, and ask how they will verify it has been applied correctly. This is not a detail to leave to chance or to discover after the job is done.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The foundation of a good turf installation starts with removing what is underneath. If you have an existing lawn or dead grass, it must be cleared and disposed of. If there is old turf, it is removed and hauled away. The soil is then excavated to the depth required for your base material, typically two to four inches depending on your site conditions and drainage needs. A weed barrier fabric is sometimes installed at this stage, particularly if the existing soil has active weeds or if you want extra protection against perennial root intrusion, though many Colorado Springs yards with well-draining soil do not require it.
Once the ground is prepared, a free-draining base material is laid down. In Colorado Springs, decomposed granite or crushed base rock (often called crusher run or recycled asphalt) is standard. This material is spread in lifts, or layers, and compacted firmly with a plate compactor. The base must be graded so that water runs away from your house and any pools or patios. After the base is compacted and level, an optional draining underlay or pad may be installed. This is especially common in pet areas, under patios and balconies, and in play zones where comfort and drainage are priorities. Finally, the turf is laid on top.
On hard surfaces such as concrete or balconies, the approach is different. Turf should never be glued flat to a slab because water will pool underneath and cause odor and deterioration. Instead, a draining underlay or cushioning pad is laid first, the turf is installed on top, and edge drainage is managed so water can escape. This layering approach is critical to long-term performance.
Base Prep on Colorado Springs Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Colorado Springs sits at 6,000 feet where the plains meet the foothills, and the soil varies widely across the city. In older neighborhoods near downtown and the Old North End, you may encounter clay or fine-grained soils that drain slowly. In the foothill areas under the ponderosa pines and in newer master-plan communities on the northeast prairie, soils can be sandy or mixed. Some yards have dense compacted layers that resist water penetration. Understanding your soil type is the first step in designing a base that will drain properly.
When soil drains poorly, the base must be excavated deeper and graded with a slope away from your house and any pool or patio. A typical base consists of three to four inches of compacted decomposed granite or crushed base rock. This material is spread in lifts (usually two to three inches at a time) and compacted with a plate compactor to achieve firm, stable ground. Proper compaction is not optional. An uncompacted base will settle over time, creating dips and low spots where water pools, infill migrates, and odor develops, especially in pet areas. The installer should grade the base so water sheds away from structures, and should compact each lift visibly before moving to the next layer.
If your yard has a genuine water problem, such as a high water table, poor subsurface drainage, or a low spot that collects runoff from upslope, base preparation alone may not be enough. In these cases, drainage improvements such as French drains, grading changes, or redirected downspouts should be addressed before turf is installed, or the project may be declined. A turf installer who walks away from a wet yard is being honest with you.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial turf is designed to drain water quickly, but the drainage rate varies by product. Turf backing is either perforated (with small holes punched through) or fully permeable (woven or needled to allow water to pass through the entire backing). Drainage rate is specified in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH/SF). A typical residential turf drains at 4 to 8 GPH/SF, which is fast enough for light rain. Heavy downpours and pet areas are the real test. If your yard receives afternoon hail or you have multiple dogs using the turf, you need a base and underlay that drain as fast as the turf itself, or water will back up underneath and cause problems.
Underlays and cushioning pads come in different grades. Some are thin and provide little drainage benefit; others are engineered to drain quickly and to offer comfort underfoot in play areas or around pools. On a patio or balcony, a draining underlay is essential because concrete or wood does not drain at all. The underlay also protects the turf backing from UV damage and extends the life of the installation. Ask your installer to specify the drainage rate of both the turf and any underlay in writing, and to explain how water will move through the system during a heavy rain.
Remember that fast-draining turf still fails if the base underneath does not drain. A turf with 8 GPH/SF drainage sitting on an uncompacted, poorly graded base will pool water and develop odor. The entire system, from the ground up, must be designed and installed to move water away. This is why base preparation is not a cost to cut.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The details that separate a professional installation from a rushed one show up at the seams, edges, and perimeter. Seams are joined with seam tape and a flexible adhesive, and the grain of the turf (the direction the fibres lay) must be aligned on both sides of the seam so the colour and texture appear consistent. A visible seam, especially one that is darker or lighter than the rest of the turf, usually means the grain was not matched or the adhesive was not applied correctly. Seams should be virtually invisible when you walk across the yard.
Nails or staples hold the turf down at the perimeter and along seams. They must be spaced correctly (typically every 6 to 12 inches, depending on the turf weight and site conditions) and driven flush so they do not catch or lift. A lifted edge or a seam that separates and curls up tells you the fastening was inadequate or the base shifted underneath. Power brooming is the final step: a motorized brush is run over the turf to stand the fibres upright and spread the infill evenly. This makes the turf look full and natural, and it ensures infill is not clumped in one area.
Edging is finished with bender board, metal trim, or a secured perimeter that keeps the turf from fraying and prevents infill from washing out. Turf around pavers and pool decks should be cut tight and clean so water can drain and the edge does not become a trip hazard. These finishing touches are not cosmetic; they are structural and functional, and they should be included in your written specification and verified before the job is signed off.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any turf is ordered or installed, you should receive a written specification that names every material and method. This spec is your protection and your reference if a problem arises. It should include the turf product name and fibre type, the face weight (measured in ounces per square yard), the pile height (measured in inches), the backing type and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth, the compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be installed, the seam method and location, the edging material and method, cleanup and haul-off, and the workmanship warranty period.
A good spec also notes any site-specific conditions, such as grading, existing utilities, or drainage challenges, and how they will be addressed. It should be specific enough that another qualified installer could read it and know exactly what to install. Vague language such as "standard base" or "appropriate infill" is not acceptable. Ask for the spec in writing before you commit, and do not accept changes to the spec during the installation without a written amendment and an updated price.
On pricing, costs are measured per square foot and depend on the turf product, infill, base depth, and site conditions. The only way to get an accurate price is an on-site measurement and assessment. Colorado Springs Turf Installation offers a free estimate and will provide a written spec before work begins. Call (719) 453-0461 to schedule a visit to your yard.